Thursday, August 20, 2009

Plum Tuckered Out








Methley and Imperial Epineuse

How can four kinds of plums grow on one tree? The ancient science of grafting had thus far failed attach to the rootstock of my ignorance. But I couldn't deny it exists. The tree in question belongs to my parents. My mother, in particular, had been awaiting the plums with keenest anticipation. She would soon debut the two best plum desserts I have ever had.

The tree stands proudly in my parents' front yard. It greets passersby with plumy limbs arched over with rapidly ripening fruit. Although they have two other plum trees, as well as apples, apricots, pears, kiwis, and berries aplenty, this four-way tree is the jewel in their fruity crown.

The four varieties should ripen in stages. But this year, urged on by triple-digit temperatures, three came into fruition (lol) at once. Methleys: dusky purple orbs, nearly hemorrhaging their juices from gossamer-thin skin. Beauties: bold and textured, a complex reddish-yellow shade. Shiros: stately and subdued in flavor, gloriously golden hues.

In addition, a plum from a different tree needed collecting. An elliptical French prune plum, the Imperial Epineuse is firm but sharply sweet throughout. All of them were sweet, but none would pick themselves.

Armed with baskets and buckets, I crouched and twisted beneath the branches. My parents were visiting family in New York, which left me to tend the garden and fruit trees. During this particular week, New York shivered in the 60's while Seattle topped 103.

The ground shimmered in the heat and running sweat scalded my eyes. But putting off picking wasn't an option. Several Methleys and a few Beauties lay fermenting in the dirt. In another day, I may have lost a dozen more. Less plums for the desserts mom promised.

Although the Methleys screamed for harvest, I saved them for last. They would dissolve into nectar under firmer, heavier fruit. The Shiros came off first, with a gentle tug. About half of them would stay on the tree for a riper day. About two-thirds of the Beauties surrendered themselves that afternoon.

But nary a Methley could remain. And they were the most difficult to pick. With the faintest squeeze, they rupture. Graze against one and they plummet ker-splat like a stock market windowsill jumper. Not to mention their sheer numbers.

So bobbing and weaving, bending and stretching, I managed to strip the Methleys from their perches. I also ate several that were punctured or bruised, and a few that were fragrantly fermenting under their skin.

Next, the Imperial Epineuse called me over. Most of these, I would pick firm and off-ripe. They would finish sweetening themselves in the refrigerator. All told, I lugged three large bucketfuls inside that day, to await my mother's magic.

When mom finally transformed the fruits of our labor, I wasn't disappointed.
First, she concocted a frozen plum yoghurt with the Methley's. It's subdued sweetness was cool and muted, like a pouty beauty. The cinnamon and mild tannic bite in the plum's skin gave it the character of a light red wine. The perfect refreshment for 100 degree weather.

The plum upside-down cake, on the other hand exuded dulcitude. Brashly, Dixie-style, in-your-face, better-than-sex, sweet. Thin slices of Imperial Epineuse graced the top (or bottom? Isn't it upside down?). The harmonious marriage of the plums with the almond fragrance makes you wonder why the same tree can't spawn them both. Or does it? After all, if four kinds of plums grow on one tree...

Here are mom's recipes:


Plum Fro Yo
 


Ingredients:
Ripe Methley plums (mom says "a whole mess of plums". I'll hazard 2 lbs)
1 cinnamon stick
1/4 C water (approx), to prevent burning
2 C fat free yoghurt
3/4 C granulated sugar
1 t vanilla extract


Method:
  1. Simmer plums on low heat w/ cinnamon stick and water, stirring occasionally.
  2. After several hours, when plums are soft and shapeless, mash and remove pits and cinnamon.
  3. Add 3.5 C mashed plums and remaining ingredients into ice cream machine / maker.
  4. Freeze until thick.
  5. If storing in freezer, cover surface with saran wrap to prevent ice crystals.
  6. Let soften at room temp. for 20 min. before serving.




Plum Upside-down Cake

Ingredients:
12 T sweet butter
1 C packed brown sugar
1 T honey
12 small to medium pitted prune plums, cut into wedges
1 C granulated sugar
2 eggs
1/2 t almond extract
1 t vanilla
1.5 C flour
2 t baking powder
1/2 t cinnamon
1/2 t salt
1/2 C whole milk

Method:
  1. Simmer 6 T of the butter, brown sugar, and honey in a cast iron skillet (10" works best.) Simmer and stir frequently on low heat until smooth and thick.
  2. Place plum wedges in decorative pattern on top of the sauce.
  3. Cream 6 T of the butter with granulated sugar, eggs, almond extract, and vanilla.
  4. Mix HALF of the following ingredients in a bowl: flour, baking powder, cinnamon, salt and milk. Mix the other half in a separate bowl, then combine and mix until smooth. This makes for a more uniform mix.
  5. Add creamed butter mixture and mix.
  6. Pour complete mixture into the skillet, over the plum sauce.
  7. Bake skillet in oven at 350 until cake is done, about 65 minutes. (Test doneness by piercing cake with a fork. If the tines come out clean, it's done.)
  8. Cool pan on a rack for 15-20 minutes.
  9. Run a knife around the edge of the cake. Turn upside down over a platter or cake plate and remove the pan.
  10. Use a rubber spatula to scrape off any remaining fruit or sauce from the pan and apply to the cake. Yummy!



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