Callaloo, Calalou, Callalo

I've only cooked one tropical food plant I knew to be poisonous. This fact requires no special commendations. Some of the world's most popular foods (take cassava, for instance) can kill when raw or mal-prepared. How ironic that the taro leaf, prickly with oxalate crystals, transforms into callaloo, a slippery soup renowned throughout the Caribbean.

The taro plant, or Colocasia Esculenta, twines through thousands of years food history. Muddled in murky origins (cultivated in India as long as 7000 years ago), it now holds an esteemed place in cuisines throughout the world.

It's corm (underground plant stem) is an essential starch for millions of people. In Polynesia, taro becomes poi. West Africans (who call taro “cocoyam”) pound the corms to make fufu, a gooey paste eaten with soups and stews. Ubiquitous in Seattle's International District, Taro can be found in back-alley noodle shops and dim sum restaurants. When I was young, my parents would insist upon braised taro and pork belly at House of Hong. Another neighborhood staple, bubble tea shops abound offering purple taro smoothies.

The leaves play a decidedly quieter role in some diets. It's quite a shame, as they are gorgeous. Often likened to elephant ears, they reside in the same family as philodendrons, calla lilies, and birds of paradise. Not to mention our Northwestern trail buddy, the skunk cabbage.

Some culinary aversion may be due to the high levels of calcium oxalate crystals. The leaves irritate skin when handled and drive the mouth and throat mad if ingested raw. Also found in rhubarb and a variety of houseplants (like the kind that generate high vet bills), calcium oxalate can cause kidney stones, anaphylactic shock, and liver damage.

Which are good reasons to prepare it properly. An overnight soak or thorough cooking will destroy the crystals. Then you can get to work on making callaloo, the Caribbean concoction in question.

Callaloo varies from island to island, probably from house to house. Although taro leaf is the favored green, it's not essential. The soup can be made with amaranth leaves or various xanthasomas. It often contains crab meat, okra, coconut milk, and chili peppers. A host of other meats, vegetables, and seasonings may find their way into the pot.
The texture of callaloo is truly unique, if not an acquired taste. It's often blended, either with a mixer, blender, food processor or a "Lele stick", a small forked branch. The okra, taro leaves, and coconut milk create a souffle-like texture that's half the fun of eating it.

Here's a sample recipe for callaloo. Feel free to alter it based on dietary preferences and availability of ingredients. I've heard that spinach or Swiss chard will work just as well.

Ingredients:

1.5 lbs. taro leaves and stems
1/3 lb. okra, sliced
1 medium sized Chinese eggplant, chopped
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 green plantain, finely chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
3-4 oz crab meat
1/4 tsp thyme
a dash ground cloves
1/2 tsp ground allspice
cayenne pepper to taste
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp white vinegar
1/2 cup coconut milk

Method:

1. Wash, drain, and chop the taro leaves and stems coarsely.
2. Place in a large saucepan or stockpot with okra, eggplant, and 2 cups water.
3. Cover and cook until tender, stirring occasionally. Set aside
4. In another large stockpot, sauté the onions, garlic, and plantain in the oil.
5. Cover and cook on medium-low heat until tender, stirring occasionally.
6. Add the remaining ingredients and cook for a few minutes longer.
7. Add the cooked vegetables, mix, and heat for one minute.
8. Using ladle or large measuring cup, transfer soup in batches to blender.
9. Blend until a thick puree, adding a bit of water or stock if necessary.
10. Pour into first pot. Continue until all the soup is blended.
11. Serve by itself or on rice.